Wrap the patch around a worn bronze bore brush (not nylon).
Using a bore guide, stroke back and forth for 5 strokes in the first half
of the barrel. (Breech Half) Push patch through the muzzle and
unscrew brush from rod and carefully remove rod from barrel.
Remove old patch from brush.
Repeat steps 1 - 5 for 5 complete cycles.
A neglected barrel may require this to be repeated for many more cycles until it
The patch will never come out clean as JB is a slightly abrasive compound and is
working to polish your throat and bore.
After the barrel is broken in, clean the bore immediately each time
after the rifle is fired. De-copper
the bore and use JB bore cleaner every 200-300 rounds.
Field strip and clean the bolt carrier assembly.
Use a patch soaked with bore cleaner to clean the bolt carrier bore and
the bolt face and stem. Dry all
parts and lubricate bolt locking lugs, gas rings, and bolt stem with CLP and
reassemble the bolt carrier, while lubricating the cam pin and firing pin with
CLP during the process. Clean out
the inside of the upper receiver with a paper towel or patch; lubricate the
charging handle, support rails of the bolt carrier, and the inside of the bolt
carrier key. Reassemble.
The entire cleaning process is much easier by bringing a rod, patches,
and bore cleaner to the range with you. As
soon as you are finished firing the rifle, break the rifle open, remove the bolt
carrier assembly, run a little bore cleaner into the two gas vent holes in the
dish on the right side of the bolt carrier.
Pump the bolt back and forth a few times to distribute the bore cleaner.
This will soften the carbon in the bolt carrier and make it very easy to clean
once you get home. I also suggest
that you run two patches soaked with bore cleaner through the barrel and allow
it to soak until you get home and then do a thorough cleaning job.
The trigger assembly
requires little attention. Occasionally
lubricate the trigger and hammer pins with a drop of CLP.
The trigger engagement notch in the hammer should be lubricated with Neco
Moly Slide every 6 months. Trigger
adjustment is seldom required. If it
becomes necessary to increase the weight of the pull, use this procedure:
sear engagement by screwing long spring plunger in the safety in approximately
1/20 of a turn using a pair of needle-nosed pliers.
It should not be necessary to loosen the lock screw.
If the trigger is still light, increase the weight of the second stage
pull by turning the small set screw in the top of the spring plunger.
Use a .035” allen wrench.
The other set screw in the
safety is the over-travel stop.
rifle is equipped with a 1-8 or 1-7.7 twist barrel.
We do not recommend that you shoot Federal Match loads if you are using a
Krieger barrel. At 600 yards, best
results will be obtained with the Sierra 80 grain bullet.
The best single powder to load with this bullet is probably VihtaVuori
N135. Start with 22 grains of powder
and work up to no more than 23.2 grains. Use
or quality commercial brass. DO NOT
use Federal brass because it is too soft and its volume is too small.
It may be necessary to experiment with other loads in order to obtain the
rifles’ best accuracy.
lighter bullets to 2.260 inches max OAL. Seat
80 grain bullets to within .025” of contacting the origin of the rifling.
This dimension will increase as the throat wears and should be checked
periodically. Some rifles shoot best
with the bullet loaded practically against the rifling.
In a new barrel, the OAL with Sierra 80 grain bullets will run about
sight posts are .052”, .062”, or .072 with .052” being the most commonly
used. The front sight may be
adjusted up or down by turning it one complete turn after loosening the setscrew
at the bottom of the front sight post. The
front sight base is also windage adjustable.
There are four setscrews in the base and four flats milled on the barrel.
To adjust, please refer to the attachment from our website at
sights have ½ MOA clicks on windage and elevation, unless ¼ MOA is
specifically requested. The sight
aperture is interchangeable by unscrewing the insert and replacing it with
another one. Standard aperture size
is .040”. Other sizes are
available upon request. Common sizes
are .036”, .046”, and .052”.
Do not count clicks from mechanical zero when adjusting the rear sights
on this rifle. Recommended procedure
is to obtain a good 100 yard zero and set the elevation drum to the 3-8 setting.
Click up from there to get zeros at 200, 300, and 600 yards.
Two hundred yard zero is approximately four clicks up, 300 yard zero is
about 7 clicks up, and 600 yard zero is 31 clicks up.
One entire turn of the elevation drum is equal to 25 clicks.
BALANCING THE RIFLE
heavier barrel contour and addition of the handguard tube results in a rifle
that is slightly muzzle heavy. Lead shot, bullets, or a custom wedge can be
placed into the buttstock. These can
be held in place by stuffing an old sock in with them.
This will result in a rifle that is still a little on the light side for
most shooters. Additional weight can
be added by obtaining stick-on wheel weights from your local tire store. Custom
forend weight is also available. The strips should be cut to allow for each
strip to wrap around the tube and not touch the gas tube.
Begin the strip about one inch behind the handguard cap and add as many
as you desire. Weight in the
buttstock should be adequate to balance the weight on the tube.
Typical total rifle weight is approximately 13 to 16 pounds.
It is important when
shooting this rifle to have consistent close eye relief.
The best way to accomplish this is to place your nose firmly on the
charging handle, even in the off-hand position.
By using this technique, the shortcomings of the short sight radius are
eliminated. The short sight radius
does require, especially with “older” eyes, a correction that places your
focus on the front sight.
using the Bob Sled, it is the shooters responsibility to ensure that each
round is properly loaded onto the tray of the top of the Bob Sled and square
with the bore of the barrel before closing the bolt.
A cocked round may slam fire when the bolt closes on it and it will
damage the Bob Sled. We will not
warranty the Bob Sled damaged in this manner.
It is the shooters responsibility to make sure that each and every
round is properly loaded on the tray and square with the bore preferably
with the bullet nose started into the chamber.
is also the shooters responsibility in the event of a squib round or slamfire
to ensure that there is no bullet left in the barrel.
If you shoot another round through it you may bulge the barrel and we
cannot warranty the barrel. It is
the shooters responsibility to ensure that the barrel is clear and ready for
another round to be fired.
Above is a picture of our windage adjustable service rifle front sight base. As
you can see, there are set screws on both sides of the sight. When you receive
your rifle the sights are not going to be aligned as you would like them to be, please follow these
simple steps to adjust your sights.
This is most conveniently done when you break in your upper.
You will need:
- 5/64 allen wrench
- brake cleaner or other degreaser that dries quickly
- small bottle of loctite of your choice
- plenty of ammo to test alignment
1. Make sure that your rear sight is centered.
2. Slightly and evenly loosen the set screws on the side that your weapon is
firing to. (VERY slightly.)
3. Gently tighten the opposing set screws evenly.
You may need to repeat steps 2 and 3 several times until you get your front sight right
were you want it.
4. Once you have your front sight base aligned, tighten all four set screws
evenly and very tight.
You will want to check the alignment one more time at this point.
5. Clean front base and apply a few drops of loctite around the barrel
at the front base.
6. After allowing the loctite to dry for at least 10-15
minutes, liberally apply a rust preventive to the area.
Two Stage Trigger
This is the "Frank White" trigger you have
heard so much
about. It uses mostly stock parts that are modified extensively by this legendary
rifle smith. It uses a normal AR hammer, but has a modified hammer spring.
These conversions will work in Colt rifles, although those with the unique "COLT block"
will need to
be modified. The CLE trigger does require careful
installation and initial adjustment, but after that will give you many, many years of
excellent shooting for a modest investment.
This trigger can be installed by the shooter if he has good mechanical
skills and patience. We will be glad to offer phone help.
This trigger is immediately available for mil spec lowers or Colt lowers.
Remove hammer, trigger, and safety selector from lower receiver.
- Install trigger and disconnector into lower. Lubricate pin with Break-free.
- Remove spring plunger unit from safety selector. Install safety selector into lower
receiver and tighten the pistol grip. Leave the spring plunger out at this time.
- Lubricate the trigger engagement notch in the hammer with only NECO Moly-Slide.
- Adjust the over-travel. Using a 1/16" Allen wrench, screw the over-travel stop in
until the hammer does not fall when the trigger is pulled. While holding tension on the
trigger, back out the over-travel stop until the hammer falls. Back out another one-tenth
of a turn. Tighten the over-travel lock screw using a .035" Allen wrench. Ensure that
with the trigger pulled against the stop, that the hammer moves freely without rubbing the
- Install the spring plunger into the safety selector. Screw in the plunger using
needle-nosed pliers until a second state is obtained. Screw the plunger in another
one-twentieth of a turn. Tighten the spring plunger lock screw. Operate the trigger 20 to
30 times to test for proper operation and to break in the engaging surfaces. Back out the
set screw in the top of the spring plunger to obtain a light but positive second stage.
Rough first stage:
- improper or insufficient lubrication
- initial hammer spring tension too heavy
- trigger may need additional breaking in
Trigger does not return when pulled to
second stage and released.
"creepy" or "spongy"
- excessive sear engagement
Trigger break in
is best accomplished by dry firing the trigger.
It doesnt matter to the trigger if this is done with or without the upper in
place. If you are going to do it with just
the lower, stuff some patches or something similar in front of the hammer so it
doesnt impact the front of the trigger cavity in the lower each time it is fired.
Correction: back the spring plunger out to obtain a crisp
Trigger Break-In Instructions.